restore tooltips, but color blue

[mccalluc]

• Fix Label toggle with "Tutorial" #855

Keeping this as draft, but asking for review, to see if this should go forward. The existing help boxes are all-or-nothing. If you turn them off, you won't even see that you're missing something. The proposal is to bring tooltips back.

There are a couple challenges here:

• We have some long descriptions which don't work so well as tooltips... even with CSS so the boxes aren't as narrow.
• Where should the circle-question-marks go?

For the reviewer:

• Does the benefit of this seem like it will be worth the CSS wrangling required?