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Fysetc Voron V0 – Community Build Notes

Buy this Kit!

Disclaimer: Purchases made through some store links may provide some compensation to Ballistic Tech.

Real-world build notes, mods, and pitfalls for the Fysetc Voron V0 kit
Not a review – intended to help builders succeed

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Check out my full build stream series here:

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Fysetc V0 Kit Stream Series

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Voron DB Entry

Table of Contents

About This Repo

This repository exists to document a real-world build of the Fysetc Voron V0 kit:

It is intentionally similar in spirit to my previous build notes:

About This Kit

This build documents the Fysetc Voron V0.2 R1 Pro kit (Catalyst-board-based variant). It is based on the "stock" Voron V0.2r1 revision. It includes all the the most up-to-date features of the r1 like the FRS, tophat and panels. Along with many changes outlined later.

This was my third Voron V0 build, after:

  • LDO V0 kit
  • Formbot V0 kit

I haven't built the Siboor V0 kit, but I know it has unique features like:

  • Optional CNC machined parts
  • Optional colored frame extrusions
  • Different electronics choices
  • Several other features (some shared with this and other kits, others distinct and unique)

This repo isn't focused on feature to feature comparison. More on my experience with the Fysetc kit with some differences called out

Reference Documentation (Start Here)

Official Voron Documentation

You should always start with official Voron docs, then use supplemental Fysetc/Klipper/Mainsail docs where differences occur:

Fysetc Documentation & Media

⚠️ Fysetc documentation is split between GitHub, PDFs, and YouTube videos.

You will need to hop between these resources to complete different parts of the build. Specifically all the Fysetc Unique features. They call them out in their build notes. JUST BE PREPARED!

Several of the videos are addendums. The video around the motherboard shows an older version. Then later in the playlist I added the video showing installing the Catalyst Board

Kit Scope & Assumptions

This kit is unique and non-stock compared to a BOM-accurate Voron V0.

It assumes:

  • You understand the differences with the kit

  • You are comfortable with:

    • Linux
    • Klipper
    • MCU flashing (possibly, it should be preflashed but many have ended up needing to reflash)
    • SSH / command-line work

Support Expectations ⚠️

Because of the number of Fysetc-specific, non-stock design choices (Catalyst board, SBC, wiring topology, config layout):

  • Getting help from official Voron support channels can be harder

    • Voron Discord
    • Voron forums

  • Many troubleshooting threads/channels assume stock or BOM-faithful build as a baseline

  • There may/may-not be people familiar with this build available to help

  • Use the (less frequented, but helpful) Fysetc Discord for very specific Fysetc V0 kit troubleshooting

  • You may need to self-debug issues that would otherwise be straightforward

This is not a criticism of Fysetc — just an important reality to understand before building.

Build Overview

High-level notes from the build process:

  • Frame assembly was straightforward and relatively fast

    • Note - this kit does NOT support typical "No drop" nuts mod. There are some for these extrusions but they didn't work well for me. Be ready for nuts that can slide around during the build process

  • Motion system went together cleanly once the frame was properly squared

  • The CNC bed was extremely easy compared to the stock print + extrusions, and even vs the Kirigami mod

  • Integrated thermal fuse quickens the bed build a bit

  • Electronics layout is exceptionally clean compared to other V0 kits

    • X/Y steppers and connectors located near motors for shorter run and easier cable management
    • USB + 24v toolhead (single cable is very nice QoL build enhancement)

  • I had trouble in a few areas

    • Wifi module (uses a USB port, leaving only 1 for mods)
    • Noisy temps from the thermistor with the PWM wires of the toolhead fans plugged in
    • Y stepper driver undercurrent issues (for me and many others, but not for others)

  • Documentation gaps required jumping between:

    • Manual
    • GitHub
    • YouTube videos

Overall difficulty felt moderate, but with some sharp edges.

Differences From a Standard Voron V0

This kit diverges from a “classic” Voron V0 in several important ways. Below is a feature-focused breakdown of what Fysetc includes, and how it compares to a typical stock / BOM-accurate V0 build.

Fysetc-Specific Features

Below is a concise, builder-focused breakdown of what Fysetc includes and how it differs from a stock / BOM-accurate Voron V0.

Feature & Component Comparison

Feature / Component Fysetc V0 Kit Stock Voron V0 / BOM Notes
Non-stock printed parts Many required All stock of course Custom Mini Stealthburner, skeletonized X gantry mounts, and other Fysetc-specific prints
Mini Stealthburner (custom) Fysetc variant w/ LEDs Stock Stealthburner ⏫ Integrated LEDs are a big quality-of-life improvement
Skeletonized X gantry mounts CNC-style printed parts Solid printed parts ⏫ Reduces mass and looks cool
Control board Fysetc Catalyst 2.0 Separate MCU + SBC ⏫ Single-board architecture, very clean electronics bay
Linux SBC CM86 module (on-board) Raspberry Pi / CM ⏫ Uses eMMC instead of SD card with custom Linux Image
Toolhead board M36 USB + 24v Optional / aftermarket ⏫ Simplifies toolhead wiring
Wi-Fi module Included Depends on Pi Setup required manual configuration uses up USB port
Display Fysetc V0 Display None or V0 display Standard display option
Motors Fysetc motors Kit dependent ⏫ Z motor is rated for higher current & torque
Endstops Omron Z endstop switch Omron (recommended) Matches Voron best practice (sensorless X/Y)
Extruder gear Fysetc Sherpa nano-coated Standard Sherpa gear ⏫ Single-piece, wear-resistant
Hotend Fysetc Sailfish / Swordfish 60W V6 / Dragon variants ⏫ Heats quickly; Bambu-style form factor
Linear rails Fysetc SS rails (Z1 preload) Mixed preload ⏫ All rails shipped Z1 preload with less play
Bed frame CNC machined aluminum Printed frame + extrusions (or Kiragami Mod) ⏫ Extremely rigid, standout part
Build plate Build plate alignment included No alignment helpers ⏫ Easier alignment
Bed heater 75 W 60 W typical ⏫ Faster heat-up, great for ABS
Thermal fuse Integrated on Bed heater Not pre-installed ⏫ Faster/smoother build experience
Panels Acrylic Acrylic Standard V0 style
Wiring Pre-cut, pre-crimped PTFE DIY / varies ⏫ Time saver, cleaner wiring
Cable sleeving Included Optional ⏫ Nice quality-of-life inclusion
Bowden tube 2.5 mm ID 2.0 mm typical Slightly looser filament path
Toolhead LEDs Included Optional ⏫ Hard to add cleanly on stock V0
Power supply Meanwell LRS-150-24 Meanwell (varies) Trusted, well-sized
I/O extensions Ethernet + USB Optional ⏫ QoL for troubleshooting + hardwiring
Tools Hex keys, side cutters Varies Basic but useful

Why These Differences Matter

The Fysetc kit leans heavily into:

  • Integrated electronics
  • Reduced wiring complexity
  • CNC metal components where it matters

The tradeoff is that it is more complex in other ways like reflashing the linux system and dealing with the trouble spots as I've outlined below

My Mods & Deviations

These are intentional changes or additions made beyond the stock Fysetc kit.

Chamber thermistor

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  • Used to monitor heat soak and preheating behavior
    • For big or flat prints I wait for ~40C
  • Used standed NT104 hotend thermistor
  • Note - Yes there is a sensor on the USB toolhead board for the MCU. But that's not really indicative of the chamber temp
  • Product Link -
  • Model Link: - Maple Leaf Makers - V0 Chamber Thermistor Mount

4K USB camera added

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  • Mounted internally for monitoring and recording
  • Got an ELP 16MP Wide Angle 4K USB Camera (38x38 mm PCB format)
  • This rather expensive but great for timelapses. Less expensive (lower resolution) options are available
  • Product Link -
  • Model Link - UloPe - Voron 0.2 tophat corner camera mount

Urbiter Filament Runout Sensor (custom mod)

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Voron V0 Stealth Handles

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RGB Matchstick LEDs + Matchstick Diffusers

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  • RGB LEDs + Mount and Diffuser
  • Combined with klipper led_effects plugin I have different RGB effects for different states
    • Homing
    • Idle
    • Printing (white)
    • Heating
    • Paused
    • Print completed
    • Error
    • Print stopped
  • Model Link - Maple Leaf Makers - Matchstick Diffusers

Voron V0.2 Rear Cover Hinge Mod

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  • Quick way to get into the electronics bay without unscrewing the stock panel mounts
  • Requires magnets, VHB tape and sever screws
  • Model Link - mahatmaJman - Matchstick Diffusers

Voron 0.2 - LazyCams - Tool Free Locking Idlers (for Top hat))

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Fysetc Voron V0.2 R1 Umbilical Strain Relief

Voron V0.2 R1 Z-Axis Linear Rail Stopper Fix - “Mushroom Mod"

  • Some people have had trouble with weird extrusion issues in the first few layers with their Fysetc (and other brand V0s)
  • Note - I didn't run into this problem so I didn't use these rail stops
  • The V0 homes Z at it's max distance (120mm) then moves back up to 0 (+/- z-offset) to start printing
  • It seems some of the Fysetc rails are 1-2mm shorter than stock
  • With a 120mm setup config this means the rail Z axis will hit the rail stops before achieving 0mm after homing z and skipping steps
  • Spacing out the rail stops (loosening them and than travelling to 0 after homing), then adjusting the bed springs will alleviate this (then tightening the stops back down)
    • Alternatively you could loosen the whole rail, endstops and skoot both up 1-2mm away from the Z endstop. But that's much more envolved
  • Depending on the extent it could meaning having a large 1-3mm gap between the top of the rail stop and rail
  • These mushroom railstops essentially extend the rail a bit to help ensure no rail carriage ball bearings are lost
  • Model Link - 3DPrintSOS - Voron V0.2 R1 Z-Axis Linear Rail Stopper Fix - “Mushroom Mod"

V0 Meshed Skirts

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  • Just a visual ehnacement
    • Note - Besure to find the V0.2r1 skirts (they are taller than previous revisions) if you need custom versions
  • For the custom rear skirt I just printed the mesh part, cut the keystone parts out and glued it on
  • This repo has many variations of keystone skirts but you don't have to use them
  • Model Link - reemo3dp - V0.2r1 Meshed Skirts

Voron V0 Display (V0, V0.1, V0.2) Display Knob MMU, Dual Colour

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Filaments Used

Primary filaments used during this build:

  • Polymaker ABS / ASA

Color Scheme & Theme

I’ve named this printer Genji and color scheme for this build was inspired some of the base colors for Genji’s original skin in Overwatch:

  • Polymaker Grey ASA base
  • Polymaker Pop green ASA accent
  • Some darker Polymaker Galaxy Grey/Black ABS used for breaking things up and visual interest

Links to filament

I also really like Polymaker PL ABS/ASA filaments and will likely pick from their selection of colors for subsequent builds

Troublesome / Notable Areas

⚠️ These are not deal-breakers, but they are areas where builders should slow down and read carefully.

Printed Parts Scope ⚠️

  • This kit requires printing many non-stock STLs
  • The kit doesn't come with printed parts at it's base price
    • Parts printed by Fysetc and CNC parts are available as add-ons
  • These can be found in the Fysetc Github
    • There are some new parts in the Add Directory
    • Others are mixed in with the stock parts
    • I suggest using OrcaSlicer or Prusa Slicer to lay out plates
      • Drag the parts onto plates
      • Organize by area of the printer
      • Organize by color
      • Try to note which parts may be different than stock
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  • Some important Fysetc-provided models for:

    • Custom Mini Stealthburner
    • Skeletonized X gantry mounts
    • Rear skirt
    • Other electronics- and board-specific parts

This is not inherently bad, but it does mean:

  • You cannot blindly follow the standard Voron V0 printed parts list
  • Mixing stock and Fysetc parts will cause fitment issues
  • If you use a service like PIF (Print-if-forward) or another parts service (other than Fysetc's CNC/Printed Parts)
    • You may/may-not be able to specify this version of the kit
    • You may/may-not be able to poin them to the above STL links and have them print the specialty parts

Catalyst Board Flashing ⚠️

  • Initial flashing was confusing due to:

    • SD card vs eMMC behavior
    • Partially my error

  • Strongly recommend double-checking Fysetc’s latest flashing guidance and my notes above

➡️ This is one of the biggest “gotchas” in the kit.

Wi-Fi Setup ⚠️

  • Wi-Fi did not work out-of-the-box
  • Older images included a setup script; newer images do not
  • Ended up using wired Ethernet during setup
  • They have instructions for wifi setup (linked above) but I haven't gotten it working
  • I hope to get it working
  • The board only has 2 USB ports open and the module takes up one
  • As such adding a USB webcam (ther is no other ways to add a camera like a regular pi) means there's no more available
    • This is a compromise for the machine. I think Fysetcs logic is that they have hardwired USB/UART connections for the MCU and the Toolhead
    • Perhaps that limites how many they could put on the board
  • I ended up adding a small unpowerd USB hub in the enclosure
    • Since there's so little in there it actually fit and the camera works through it
    • Im able to have an extra USB going to the USB skirts
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Wi-Fi is workable, but not beginner-friendly.

Toolhead Klipper Config & PID Auto-Save ⚠️

Fysetc separates the toolhead configuration into its own file (e.g. toolhead.cfg) which is then included from printer.cfg.

Observed behavior:

  • Running PID_CALIBRATE on the extruder completes successfully
  • Klipper is unable to auto-save PID values back into the config
  • You can manually edit the commented out section in teh toolhead config

Why this happens:

  • Klipper only writes auto-generated values (PID, endstops, etc.) to printer.cfg
  • It will not write changes into included files
  • If the [extruder] section lives in a separate file, Klipper has nowhere valid to save the results

Workaround / Solution:

  • Move the entire [extruder] section back into printer.cfg
  • Re-run PID_CALIBRATE
  • Allow Klipper to auto-save normally

This is not Fysetc-specific behavior, but their config layout makes it easy to hit this issue.

Toolhead Extruder Assembly

  • Spacing selection for extruder alignment is not well-documented
  • The driven extruder gear needs to align with the filament path in the toolhead
  • Stock V0 build recommends sanding the shaft to help alignment
  • Mine didn't initially align write
  • May require partial disassembly to correct
  • Easy to get wrong if you rush

Noisy Toolhead Temps

  • The Fysetc kit utilizes 3 wire (PWM) controlled fans which are not in the stock kit
  • For some reason this seems to cause weird noise for the temps on the toolhead board
  • This occasionally resulted in an ADC Thermistor out of range error
  • Both the Extruder Thermistor temp and the MCU temp
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  • It seems to have to do with the reference voltages and yellow PWM wires
  • I corrected this by removing the wires from the JST housing and heat shrinking them
  • I initially just did the two cooling fans. But eventually did the hotend fan as well
  • After this the noise went away
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Y Stepper Undervoltage Issues (Replaced)

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  • Sometimes after preheating the chamber for a large or flat print I ran into issues homing the Y Axis
  • It seems to happen more when the chamber (and electronics bay?) is hot
  • The printer uses sensorless homing and during the homing process it reports undervoltage and Klipper crashes
  • I tried upping the voltage during homing a bit with no luck
  • Swapping out both the X and Y steppers seemed to help
  • I used spare (non-Fysetc) TMC 2209s
  • Others didn't run into this. Others were able to solve in alternative ways

Funky Reversed Pinout Diagram

  • When I went to add some mods like the chamber thermistor, Matchstick LEDs and my Urbiter FRS I consulted the Fystec Pinout on github
  • Curiously I felt like it was reversed based on the Stepper driver labels (From the back of the printer B should be on the right and A on the left. The Z stepper is on the botton right)
  • Sure enough the pinout seems to be oriented from the opposite side of the printer?
  • As in not the side you actually plug things into
  • I confirmed this on Discord
  • BE CAREFUL! There are connectors where 5V and GND could be reversed and you could make magic blue smoke!
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Tuning & Calibration

This process closely mirrors my Formbot V0 tuning workflow, with a few additional tools that proved especially helpful here.

I followed largely the same tuning workflow used on my Formbot V0 build, with a few additional tools that worked particularly well on this printer.

General Tuning Steps

  • Frame squaring and motion smoothness checks
  • Belt tensioning
  • Input Shaping
  • PID tuning (hotend & bed)
  • Pressure Advance

Helpful Klipper Tools & Plugins

  • auto_speed Used to quickly determine safe max speeds and accelerations

  • tmc_autotune Simplified stepper driver tuning

  • led_effects Used for toolhead and chamber lighting effects

KIAUH & Config Management

I relied more heavily on KIAUH on this build than previous printers:

  • Installing and updating Klipper components
  • Managing plugins
  • Keeping versions aligned between host, MCU, and toolhead

I also installed the klipper-backup plugin and used it to automatically back up my configuration to GitHub.

Electronics & Firmware Notes

Wiring

Wiring is very straight forward. You can mostly follow wiring guide linked above (shown below, but could be out of date)

image image

Hotend / Extruder Notes

  • This was my first time using the Fysetc Sailfish / Swordfish hotend

  • Despite being unfamiliar, it:

    • Heats up very quickly
    • Performs well as a stock option

Form-factor-wise, it feels similar to modern Bambu-style hotends rather than traditional V6-based designs.

The hotend + custom extruder gear seem to perform well together. I’m really liking pressed/cnc’d extruder gears vs less concentric gear/shaft/grub screw options.

They combine to achieve ~25mm/s cubed Max Volumetric flow rate using the OrcaSlicer Max test.

CANBus / USB Perspective (Context from Other V0 Builds)

This kit does not use CANBus, but building it changed my perspective on CAN for the V0 platform.

Historically, I felt CANBus was unnecessary on a V0:

  • Short cable runs
  • No cable chains
  • Picobilical / V0 umbilical already simplify wiring

However, after:

  • Fighting Molex cables on earlier V0 builds
  • Upgrading my other V0s to CANBus using boards like BTT EBB36

I now see the value:

  • Single-cable toolhead wiring is very compelling
  • Easier maintenance and cleaner routing

That said:

  • CANBus is not required, especially for beginners
  • Fysetc’s USB + 24V approach already captures many of the same benefits
  • Catalyst board wiring is clean and logical
  • Very short motor runs = less clutter

Disclaimers

  • This kit was provided for content creation
  • Fysetc had no editorial control over this repo
  • All notes reflect my personal build experience

Final Notes

If you’re looking for a unique and feature rich V0 Kit option, and are willing to deal with the complexity that arises from that uniqueness... This kit is worth serious consideration — just go in informed.

Happy building 🚀

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Build notes, experience and helpful hints for the Fysetc V0 Kit

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